"​We probably all agree that having a clutter-free home is a good thing. It’s nice to keep things organized, but everyday life can make that tricky. If your entryway is littered with shoes, backpacks, mail and the like, a drop zone might be just what you need. What is a drop zone in a house? It’s exactly what it sounds like—a space to neatly drop your stuff when you walk into your home.

A well-designed drop zone carves out a spot for everything you unload when you come through the door. It’s also meant to be aesthetically pleasing to blend with your interior design style. A drop zone is a simple way to tidy up your space, but it can easily become a mess if you don’t have a good system. Here’s what you need to know.

Drop zone in a house: What is it?
Drop zones are dedicated areas of your home that are either in or near your first point of entry into your home,” said Jil Sonia McDonald of Jil Sonia Interior Designs. “Imagine yourself laden with grocery bags, your mail, keys, lunch kits, sunglasses and your purse. You want to ‘drop’ everything on the floor when you arrive home. That’s your drop zone.”

Instead of dumping these things on the floor or your kitchen counter, they’ll have a designated spot that keeps your home free of clutter. Think of it as a catch-all for sports equipment, shoes or anything else your family routinely enters your home with. A drop zone can also help prevent essential items from getting lost in the shuffle.

“When choosing a location for your drop zone, consider a high-traffic area such as the entryway or mudroom,” said Jen Stark, the founder of Happy DIY Home. “This will help ensure you don’t forget items as you head out the door.”

Drop zone ideas
Focus on a busy walk-through area of your home, ideally near the most used entryway.

“Do you live in an apartment and enter through your front door? Or do you have a home where you enter through the garage?” asks McDonald. “Try placing your drop zone to the closest area upon entry.”

McDonald suggested a low dresser or console table that’s deliberately left empty and clear if you use your front door the most. You can drop everything on that flat surface if you walk in with your hands full.

“It’s a great idea to have your permanent storage right near that console table,” McDonald said. “Often my clients use the back of their hall closet equipped with baskets and hooks on the back of the door so that you can easily hang up a light coat or sweater, and there is a place for your keys, mail and purse.”

The most important part of a drop zone is having a clean, horizontal surface that’s big enough for you to unload when your hands are full. McDonald uses a low bookcase unit. She has a plastic container in one of the cubbies for her receipts, a small bowl for her keys and loose change, another bowl for her sunglasses and a space for outdoor shoes. Above the unit are hooks to temporarily leave kids’ backpacks, jackets or umbrellas.

“Baskets are also a great place to drop things,” McDonald said. “They keep things contained until you have time to place them away neatly. In a pinch, a bench seat with a basket underneath and hooks above can be a lifesaver.”

Keeping a drop zone organized
According to Stark, a well-designed drop zone should be both functional and stylish, providing a place to store your belongings while also adding to the overall aesthetic of your home. Above all, the goal is to keep this area organized and tidy—otherwise, it defeats the purpose. If you’re tight on space, you still have options.

“A narrow console table with baskets or bins underneath is a great way to add storage without taking up too much space,” Stark said. “Wall-mounted hooks are another option for small spaces for hanging coats, hats, bags and more.”

For a more substantial drop zone, look for pieces with plenty of storage, such as benches with built-in cubbies or hooks. Just be sure there’s enough space for everyone in your family to use the area comfortably.

“Label storage containers and baskets so everyone can easily find what they’re looking for, and consider using dividers or trays to keep things like keys and mail sorted,” Stark said. “If you have young children, be sure to choose storage containers that are durable and easy for them to use.”

From there, don’t be afraid to add some personal touches to your drop zone. This can include family photos or a fun doormat to make the space your own. Just remember that drop zones aren’t designed for permanent storage.

“It is simply a holding area that you can temporarily use to place items while entering the home,” McDonald said. “At the end of the night, it’s a good idea to put your shoes and coat away so that it is clean and available for the next day.”

Drop zone alternatives
There are a few reasons you might prefer an alternative to a drop zone. Maybe you prefer to keep your entryway clear and open. In any case, here are some solutions that might work for you:

Create a mudroom
A mudroom is an area of your home that’s specifically for removing dirty boots, muddy shoes and wet clothing. You might carve out space for one in your laundry room and add extra organizational systems for backpacks, keys, dog leashes, etc.

Convert a flex room
A flex room is typically a small space that may or may not be a separate room. It’s essentially a nook that you can convert into something like a home office or workout space. It might also make an ideal drop zone.

Use your garage
For those who enter their home through their garage, McDonald recommended setting up a landing pad right beside the door inside the garage. You can place hooks inside the garage wall for your coats and sweaters and set up shoe storage there.

Do you need a drop zone?
It really depends on your lifestyle. If you’re frustrated by constant clutter in your home and are looking for ways to get organized, a drop zone could be a great solution especially if your entryway has become an unloading zone for your family’s stuff.

A drop zone might also increase your home value. Every home and local market is different, so it’s best to consult an experienced real estate agent who understands what buyers in your area are looking for. Setting up a drop zone is inexpensive, so there isn’t much to lose. To appeal to future buyers, you might consider installing shelving units, a built-in bench or lockers for family members to keep their things. When you’re ready to sell, these formal touches could be attractive to buyers.

Bottom line
A drop zone is a simple DIY project that can help keep your home more organized. You can also dial it up a bit by installing fixtures that add to your home’s functionality and style. In the end, it could even increase your home value. "  by Marianne Hayes

Let me know if you need help creating a drop zone in your home!
​

Hi!

I'm thrilled to be featured in Canadian Home Trends magazine for January 2020.
There is a contest with great prizes to be won!

More and more of my interior design clients are wanting Navy couches and sectionals.  It's a timeless classic colour, but still feels fresh!

I've added this rug and beautiful gold lighting and accents to make it pop!
Lots of fun pillows just add to the charm!

Wicker baskets hold cozy throw blankets and the wood toned end table and chair create a warm look!
​

So honoured to be able to compete.  The other designer created a beautiful mood board, soft pinks and whites in a beautiful bedroom.  ​See the whole article here :) 
https://canadianhometrends.com/ultimate-design-challenge-2020-color-favorites/

Sources:

• Sofa, Article
• Coffee Table, Armchair, The Goods
• Baskets, Flamingo Pillow, Style in Form
• Wood Stool, Mercana
• Upholstered Stools, Navy Pillow, Tonic Living
• Rug, Yellow Pillow, Surya
• Chandelier, Litemode
• Wall Color, Pure White 7005, Sherwin Williams
• Clock, Vertuu Design
• Potted Tree, CB2
• Cable Knit Sham, Wayfair

​Happy Decorating!  If you need help completing your living room, I'd love to chat!

The World Health Organisation (WHO) lists air pollution as one of the biggest threats to our health. This is an invisible threat – we can't see it, but we also can't escape it. It's all around us, in the air we breathe. According to the WHO, 91% of the global population lives in an area where air pollution exceeds acceptable limits, causing 4.2 million deaths each year.
When you make a commitment to living more sustainably, you reduce your impact on air pollution – playing your part in reducing the impact it has in our communities.

3. To keep wildlife safe.

A 2018 report from the WWF claims humans wiped out 60% of the world's wildlife between 1970 and 2014. The evidence is pretty clear. The way we live is not sustainable – and it's harming species that do not have a say in the matter.
​
When we live more sustainably, we're able to reduce the threat that still exists to animals across the world. For example, when we commit to buying products without palm oil, we're doing our bit to reduce the impact of deforestation. This deforestation currently affects already-endangered species across the globe, including chimpanzees, tigers and African elephants.
When we buy sustainably, we also need to make sure the products we buy are not tested on animals. Around 75,000 animals are still killed in laboratories each year. 

​Recycling is not enough. If we want to reduce the impact we're having on the environment, we also need to look at how we can reduce our overall waste - and ensure that the waste we do have, is being disposed of in a sustainable way.

​Ready for the last post outlining the 15 Essential Steps to Design your Dream Home?  Here we go!

First, let’s review, we’ve looked at steps 1-12 so far:
15 Essential Steps to design your dream home Part 1 of 5 

1. Selecting your perfect structure
2. Floor plans and elevations
3. Function

15 Essential Steps to design your dream home Part 2 of 5

4. Budget
5. Mood and Style
6. Overall design

15 Essential Steps to design your dream home Part 3 of 5

7. Bathroom and Kitchen design
8. Furniture Plan
9. Lighting plan

15 Essential Steps to design your dream home Part 4 of 5

10. Window covering
11. Fabric
12. Wall colour
Now... we move on to the last 3 steps Part 5/5
​Steps 13, 14 and 15 !

​13. Styling:
Now that you have a complete plan, exterior colours, roofing, windows etc, you can shop! Now it's time for accessories. For rhythm, you need objects that repeat. Instead of one candlestick on your sideboard in your dining room, what about 3 of the same? This way our accessories have more of an impact. 

​Ask yourself repeatedly through this process -- are my choices consistent with my commitment to the desired ambience? If not go back through a few steps. You cannot compromise here and get the room of your dreams. 

Continuously keep the mood of your room in mind. Try to do all your accessorizing and styling within a short period of time in order to keep to one style. Note: 80 percent of the design of a room should be in one focused style and 20 percent can vary. This 20 percent will certainly stand out.
Every room needs some bling unless it's a Farm home pictured below. Fully complete one room, before moving onto the next.

​14. Edit your choices:
Keep the concepts of harmony and balance in mind when editing your ideas. I find this stage often takes the most time. Your final choices should please your eye, feel balanced, and create your desired mood. Our eyes need to rest so don't be afraid to have a little bare space, that helps make everything else pop.
​Line the items up along a wall to see what you are working with.
What works, what doesn't?

15. Finally - Relax:
Designing a home is not easy. There are important choices to be made and made quickly. Having a game plan and following it does ease the stress.
Now we're all done, kick back, relax and enjoy your beautiful new home!

​OK, are we ready? Questions? I'd love to help! 

It's always nice to be featured in different publications and magazines!

Beckenstein Fabrics was kind enough to ask me to present my recent projects.  I was happy to be featured with 2 other amazing interior designers. 
​Feel free to read more here https://www.beckensteinfabrics.com/3-talented-interior-designers-share-the-projects-they-completed-this-past-summer/
Thank you so much Beckenstein for your kind words and for featuring our designs!

Here's a few quick tips on lighting placement for your dining room chandelier or pendant.

Specifically, how high do we hang the bottom of our pendant or chandeliers, above our dining room tables?

Well, this depends upon the height of the room.
Here's a few quick examples:
8' high ceiling - hang the bottom of the light, 32 - 36" off of the table.
9' high ceiling - hang the bottom of the light, 36 - 40" off of the table.
10' high ceiling - hang the bottom of the light, 40 - 44" off of the table.

​Hope this quick tip helps!

​In the work of any Interior Designer you have clients all along the spectrum of available budgets. 

You have the young couples who may be newly married involved in a first purchase of a home with a limited budget, getting their proverbial feet wet in the real estate market and trying to better themselves. 

You may also have others who are at mid points in their real estate journey whom are looking to upgrade with family in mind, spaces to plan and a budget designed with a growing family. 

You may have empty nesters who are in a flux looking to downsize after previously owning a larger home who need a new workable space and are involved in budgeting based on a possible retirement funds. 

All these and more showcase the strong necessity to work within a defined client's budget.

One might argue that the Interior Designer might also be strongly involved in assisting the client on setting a reasonable budget that does not strain a client's potential funds and allows for the design project to be be completed and successful.

As a preface I would like to mention that in my life i have had the good fortune of a lovely father who raised me with the sincerest of business ideal, particularly that of being customer service oriented. ​

For that reason, my business model does not use pressure to have clients overextend themselves in their design. If client - designer relationship is key to a good Interior Design business, then exerting financial pressures to achieve a particular design project is not what I would consider good "customer service". In fact some may argue that it would be rude. 

That in mind it would be safe to say that in the long run clients, who may not be able to afford a more pricey design, and whom have had a good experience with you as a designer, more trusting of your capability and relationship style. After all being personable and reasonable within client budgets goes a long way into creating possible repeat clients and also great referrals and even repeat business.

Here's to creating great happy design relationships one budget at a time!
​

Dear Interior Design friends and enthusiasts - Easter is upon us and we are celebrating by offering Interior Design Consultation vouchers for your loved ones. Show someone you care by purchasing a design consultation. We look forward to hearing from you. HAVE A HAPPY EASTER!
Contact us at info@jilsoniainteriors.com

Cooler Color Palettes

Many of the bedrooms featured in popular magazines, on TV, and in the movies demonstrate the extensive use of whites, grays, and light blues. All of these combine to form a cooler color palette for the bedroom than we’ve seen.

These colors go well with the minimalist look. If that appeals to you, this may be a trend you want to follow. Painting your walls is one easy way to change the tone of your room, but you can make your existing palette cooler by adding drapes, blankets, a bedspread, and more in your chosen cool colors.

A Relaxing Backdrop

We predict that empty minimalist walls are slowly going the way of the dinosaur. Not completely, of course! However, more and more featured bedrooms have one or two walls given over to some sort of nature scene. These can be painted on, printed on fabric and then hung, or brought in in the form of vinyl wall decals. No matter the method, bringing the outdoors into the bedroom is becoming more and more popular. ​

New kitchen cabinets are a wonderful thing.  But do you know just how strong they need to be?

When ensuring your cabinets are sturdy and top notch, here are some tests that show how cabinets are tested.  I researched and found such useful information on the ANSI/KCMA website.  (Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturer Association) These tests are meant to verify the structural integrity and strength of cabinets.
​

1. All shelves and bottoms are loaded at 15 pounds per square foot, and loading is maintained for seven days to ensure that there is no excessive deflection and no visible sign of joint separation or failure of any part of the cabinets or the mounting system.
2. Mounted wall cabinets are gradually loaded to 600 pounds without any visible sign of failure in the cabinet or the mounting system.
3. To test the strength of base-front joints, a load of 250 pounds is applied against the inside of cabinet-front stiles for cabinets with drawer rail, or 200 pounds is applied for cabinets without drawer rail, to ensure reliable front joints that will not open during stress in service or during installation.
4. To test the ability of shelves, bottoms, and drawer bottoms to withstand the dropping of cans and other items, a three-pound steel ball is dropped from six inches above the surface. After the test the drawer must not be damaged and must operate as before the test with no visible sign of joint separation or failure of any part of the cabinet or mounting system.
5. To test the ability of cabinet doors and connections to withstand impacts such as children may cause in falling against a cabinet, a 10-pound sandbag is used to strike the center of a closed cabinet door and repeated with the door opened to a 45-degree angle. The door must operate as before the test and show no damage or sign of separation or failure in the system.

If you need more help please check out this link  ​https://www.kcma.org/certifications/ansi-kcma-certification 

We design gorgeous kitchens!  Feel free to contact us below:

Wondering how to calculate which size of fan you need for your bathroom?  For a bathroom with a tub or shower, here's the magic ratio!

Calculate the volume of your bathroom:
Height of the room x length of room x width of the room = total volume.
ie. 8' high x 10' long x 6' wide room =  480 cubic feet.

Now divide the cubic feet by 7.5

480 divided by 7.5 = 64 cfm fan size.  Or select the closest available fan size, when in between sizes, always select the higher CFM fan.  Meaning, if there is a 50 CFM fan and a 75 CFM fan, select the 75 CFM fan.

There you go!

 I received a great email from Mehran from ATEC Building Envelope Consulting Inc. and I just had to share the great information.

From time to time builders or homeowners ask me what type of Caulking and sealant materials they should use. The following list provides some guidelines.
 
A wide variety of caulking material is available, each suited to certain applications.
They tend to be high VOC emitters; therefore, builders need to be aware of possible indoor air quality problems that can result from the use of a particular sealant , especially in housing for chemically sensitive people:

1. Oil- or resin-based caulking will bond to most surfaces. However, it is not paintable or durable, as it shrinks and hardens.
2. Latex-based caulking bonds to most surfaces except polyethylene. It does shrink, but is more durable than oil or resin based caulking .
3. Butyl rubber will bond to most surfaces. It is particularly suitable for use on masonry, but not where the joint expands and contracts . It is paintable , but shrinks and has a limited durability
4. Nitrile rubber bonds well to masonry and metal, but not to painted materials . It is paintable and suited for use in are as where moisture is a problem . It shrinks appreciably but is considered to be durable.
5. Neoprene rubber will bond to most surfaces , and is particularly suitable for use on concrete. It is paint able and considered durable.
6. Silicone caulking bonds well only to glass, metal and ceramics . Silicone does not shrink, and is very durable. It is also suitable for use in are as where moisture is a problem. However, silicone is not paintable after it has fully cured, and subsequent applications of caulking will not adhere to silicone caulking.
7. Polysulfide caulking bonds well to primed surfaces . It does not shrink and is very durable. It should not be left exposed.
8. Polyurethane caulking will bond to most surfaces except polyethylene. It does not shrink and is very durable.
9. Acoustical sealant does not require a primer and bonds well to polyethylene. It is not paintable and can not be used in areas where it will be left exposed because it does not harden. It is considered to be very durable. To date, this has been the sealant of choice for polyethylene, but it is solvent-based and an indoor air quality concern.

 10.  Siliconized-acrylic is a new type of caulking that has the ease of use and paint ability of                      acrylic but the durability of silicone.
 
Please do not hesitate to contact Mehran Saraie, EIT, AScT if you need further information or if you have any questions.  mehran@atecenvelope.com

​
Recessed can lighting design layout:​

Part A:  How many pot / recessed / can lights do I need?
​

• Step 1:  Measure the length x width of the room. Now you have the area or total square footage of your room. ie. 12' x 20' = 240' square feet.

• Step 2:  Multiply the area x 1.5 to get your total wattage needed. (Note in some areas where you need a lot of light, or have a very high ceiling multiply by 3). If the lights will be installed in a ceiling taller than 16-feet, you may also want to use PAR type light bulbs. They have a tighter beam control which will get more of the light down from the ceiling to the surface plane. ie. 240 s.f. x 1.5 = 360.
• Step 3:   Total wattage, divided by the bulb wattage you plan to use, ie. ( 40 watt, 60 watt, 75 watt, 100 watt etc.) = amount of total recessed lights you will need. ie. 360 divided by 60 = 6 

​
Formula:  total sq. footage x 1.5 = total wattage needed. Total wattage divided by 60 watts (or whichever wattage you select) = total amount of recessed can lights.
Example:  240 square foot room x 1.5 = 360 divided by 60 (the bulb wattage I'd like to use) = 6 recessed lights needed.

Part B:   Draw up a ceiling diagram (reflected ceiling plan) showing the amount of can  lights you need (Part A formula).  The cans / pots / recessed lights should be evenly distributed around the room, usually they are in rows with an equal number of cans in each row.  Here's a great example of a kitchen lighting layout, the yellow dots show the recessed lights, the red dots show the pendant lights:
​

​You also may enjoy this other article:
15 Steps to Build your Dream Home

​Happy Lighting!

2. What was your biggest colour/design mistake? 

I work with a 15 Step Design System that doesn't leave room for mistakes, but sometimes it’s the little things that really make a room. I once decorated a client’s home, and it turned out beautifully. The client was thrilled, but the home didn’t have anything with 'meaning' in it. 

Now, I always try to add something that is personal to a client, such as a great, great grandmother’s silver cutlery (below). Our client had these beautiful heritage pieces , and now they are a wonderful conversation point – brilliant idea! 

We've been designing kitchens for years and our clients love us! Light and bright kitchens, that are functional and practical; rule today.  However when we arrive home at night, we encounter our own drab and dreary kitchen.   The designer who created this kitchen had unknowingly, selected competing undertones - orange floor, burgundy cabinets, black and PINK countertops and Tuscan gold backsplash. This is definitely not my style and I think it's time for a change!  Don't you?

I know - it's bad, right?  When designing kitchens for our clients, we start with choosing 2 items first.  The counter top and the kitchen sink!  
As I use Caesarstone almost exclusively (they have the best range of colours and patterns of quartz - in my opinion), I knew which counter top I wanted almost immediately. Frosty Carrina!  
It's a warm white, with subtle flecks and veining of light warm gray.  Giving almost a marble look, but without the hassle, upkeep, staining and etching of real marble.  Their quartz has antibacterial properties meaning there is no need to seal the counters - eliminating the maintenance that is needed every few years.    
Have a look at all the beautiful options from Caesarstone here! 

The next item I choose is the Kitchen sink.  Of course the size is dictated by any existing cabinetry, if you are starting from scratch, the world's your Oyster.   A favourite manufacture of mine is Blanco.  They sell amazing sinks of all different shapes and sizes.   Silgranit, Stainless steel, FireClay and more! Here's a cheat sheet on the great points.
Silgranit:

• Made in Canada
• 80% natural granite composite material
• Exceptional resistance to heat, stains, scratches and acids
• Non porous - dirt and bacteria cannot penetrate the surface of the sink
• Rear-positioned drain holes maximize usable bowl and cabinet storage space

Fireclay sinks:
Apron sink - who doesn't love apron sinks?
Centre drain location
3 1/2'' (90mm) stainless steel strainer included

Stay tuned!  Sneak peek photos coming up - we've just installed the gorgeous Caesarstone counter top and we are absolutely thrilled with it!
Stay tuned for more updates and tips and tricks!

Please click through to follow the link to my posting.  I hope you enjoy!

Jil Sonia Interior's post.
  

I've never been so impressed with a blog article, that I've contacted the author, and asked for his authorization, so that I can post that article in my blog before.  I've found this posting so insightful and specific, that I've asked Matt Astrella from Alglo Engineering, if I could re-post his blog.  He said yes,  and I truly hope that you find it as helpful as I have.  

(Alglo Engineering has also come up with an unique tool that can help all interior designers, stay tuned to hear more about this new tool, below!)

What Is Color Temperature?

Color temperature is mostly a measurement of the amount of yellow or blue white a light is comprised of and is measured in degrees Kelvin (K). The term ‘temperature’ is used because designers often describe how warm or cool light appears, the more orange and yellow light is the warmer and the more white and blue, the cooler.

How Is Color Temperature Measured?

Color temperature is measured by a unit called the Kelvin (K). The Kelvin thermodynamic temperature scale is defined so that absolute zero is 0 kelvins (K). The measurement of color temperature follows similarly the color changes a piece of metal would experience as heat is applied to it. At first, the metal would glow a deep orange-red and then become more yellow-white and finally move to the blue spectrum. The lower numbers on the light temperature scale (2700K is usually the base) contain a more yellow-orange color, the middle of the scale are white and the top of the scale (often ends at 6500K) you get very bright white to blue color.

How Do I Choose Which Temperature to Use?

The color temperature you want to use to illuminate your room depends mostly on the mood you are looking to create. If you are using warm furniture colors such as rich dark woods, reds in oriental rugs, and wall paint, 2700K to 3000K bulbs will bring out those colors more. For rooms with light woods, whites, grays, and blues, and lighter wall colors such as lighter shades of purple and blue the 3500K and even up to 5000K bulbs will compliment best.

Interior designers can swap out light bulbs or use an LED Design Kit to show how different materials will look under the different temperatures.

Another tip is to base it on what the dwellers are using the room for. For example, many people will find a formal dining room more appealing with warmer light, while for a large, open-plan office neutral to cool white light is the better choice. Offices often use 5000K fluorescent lighting that creates a cool white light that has been said to keep people alert and awake.

It can also be aligned with how much natural light the room gets and whether you want to keep that same feeling through dusk and into the night or if you want to switch it up come dark. A room in full sunlight during the middle of the day will be a bright, blue white (around 5500K) while horizontal daylight is near 5000K, daylight on an overcast day is more blue (6500K), and during sunrise and sunset you get extremely warm light close to 1800K.

What Products Fall Into The Different Temperature Ranges?

You can purchase LED products in any temperature between 2700K and 6500K. Solid State Lighting makes it easy to adjust color with dyes.

Metal Hallide and Fluorescent products can also be found in different ranges across the spectrum.

• < 2700K – Warmest: These light temperatures are produced by fire and the sun!
  
  
• 2700K – Warm Light: Most incandescent light bulbs produce warm light which is why they are often used in restaurants and dining rooms to create a warm, comfortable environment. Halogen lighting is also in this range.
  
  
• 3000 - 4000K – Soft, Neutral Bright Light: Light within this range still has a little warmth to it but is fairly neutral. A lot of LED products and some soft/warm CFL bulbs fall in this range for use around homes to create a large amount of useful light.
  
  
• 5000-6500K – Bright White/Daylight: Fluorescent lighting and most CFLs fall within this range and is used in applications where natural light is desired.

Matt Astrella

Editor's note:  Please click on this link, to see the Interior Designer's Light kit, that helps show how different lighting can widely change the colours of the item.  I can imagine this tool being helpful when out at various showrooms, you could bring the light tool with you, take the item aside, then shine the light on the item, to show how it looks with the client's own lighting.  Saving many costly mistakes.

Did you hear?  The 60s inspired TV series Mad Men, is in it's final season.  Bad news for this wildly popular show, I know.  

But to hold us over just a little longer, I created an interior design mood board based on my personal favourite style - Mid Century Modern.  This MCM style, features clean  lines, attention to subtle detail, simple forms; with a nod to entertaining.  Here's a photo of Roger Sterling's Office below.

When choosing my inspiration furniture, I went to the ever popular furniture online store called Charish.  This store accepts furniture from all over the continental USA, posts great photos of the pieces, then offers them for sale.  They take great care to only sell amazing furniture.  

I especially love the great search options.  You can search by Style, Colour, Price point, Category, Location etc.  Which makes selecting the perfect item a breeze!  Have a look at what I have created.  
All items from Charish.    

If you want to check out their direct link to their MCM furniture please click here, I promise you'll love it!

Thanks for indulging my zest for Mid-Century modern design! 

There are an amazing amount of beautiful range hoods available now.  Glass, steel and custom wood are all options.  But, you need to know the SIZE of range hood you need, not necessarily the dimensions (for this topic), but the amount of CFM (cubic feet per minute) needed for your hood.  Here's the rule of thumb, remember to double check with your contractor and local building code.

First you need to select your stove, or cook top.  Then you need 100 CFM for every 12" of stove width.
For example a 30" stove (2.5') x 100 CFM= Approx. 250 CFM needed, as a minimum. 
But we can't just stop there...

​We need to keep the room size in mind.  Larger rooms need more CFM to clear the cooking odors away.
A range hood should exchange the air in the kitchen 15 x per hour.  

Here's a helpful example. If your kitchen is 12' x 15' and 10' high, that equals 1,800 cubic feet.  To find the size of fan needed, multiply the cubic feet x the # of air exchanges (15) then divide by 60 (minutes in an hour).  

In our example that would be: 1,800 x 15 = 27,000 divided by 60 = 450.  You need 450 CFM minimum for this size of kitchen.

Are we finished?  Not yet.  Gas ranges deliver a lot more heat than electric ranges.  So we need to take this into consideration.  Most gas burners put out approx. 10,000 BTUs per burner.  Multiply that by the number  of burners, 5 shown here = 50,000 BTU Then divide by 100 to find the minimum CFMs needed.  In this case 500 CFM.

Now we still aren't quite finished.  What about the size of the duct work, number of turns, etc.?  Most HVAC suppliers recommend smooth 8" metal pipe.   Add 1 CFM per foot of pipe and add 25 CFM for each bend and 40 CFM for the roof cap. Let's estimate this example as being 100 CFM needed.

Now, we ARE finished.  Take the rating for the stove width (250 CFM in our example),  room size (450 CFM minimum), burner type (500 CFM minimum).  The highest number is 500, then add your ductwork CFM calculations (100) and you would need a total of 600 CFM for this range size, kitchen size, range burner and ductwork.

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​​Please remember to double check if you need a licensed mechanical contractor to install a make up damper to switch on simultaneously with the kitchen range hood to bring in fresh air to prevent a negative pressure in the home.   There are many varying factors at play - location of your home, gas or electric range, differing building codes, etc.  In BC, Canada our municipality states:   makeup air is only required if the displacement of air exceeds .5 air changes per hour and is used with a fueled appliance (i.e. gas stove).
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I hope this helps.  Be sure to always discuss this with your contractor HVAC installers and appliance providers.

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